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Avoiding toxic cosmetics

September 5 , 2003

Dear Marti,
Can you answer a question about toxins in beauty products? Do you know what kinds of ingredients are important to avoid and which are okay?
Signed,
Allie C.

Dear Allie,

While beauty isn't exactly my gig, I do know a little about toxins and how to keep them off your face-and subsequently out of your internal organs. Remember that the skin is the largest single organ of the body. It's not just a pretty shell; it's essentially a sponge suit that absorbs whatever you put on it and pulls it inside your body. Many lotions, shampoos, hair dyes, and other beauty products are loaded with potential irritants, carcinogens, neurotoxins, and hormone disrupters. Toxins from cosmetics can enter the body when we absorb, inhale and even ingest them during daily use. Despite this, the FDA does not require safety testing before beauty products hit the market. Although most cosmetic companies test their products for common sensitivities (often on animals), researchers from the National Research Council found that "of the tens of thousands of commercially important chemicals, only a few have been subjected to extensive toxicity testing, and most have scarcely been tested at all."

Toxins in beauty products aren't just a health issue, they're also an environmental issue. Millions of gallons of synthetic chemicals from personal use are washed down the drain and into sewer systems every day, contaminating waterways and soil, and poisoning marine life and plants.

To appeal to the concerned consumer, many new cosmetic products are labeled "natural," but buyer, beware. There are no standards for what "natural" means. Even in health food stores, the only way to know what you're buying is by reading the fine print. So what are the chemicals to avoid? Here are just a few:

  • Formaldehyde - used as a preservative and disinfectant, it is a suspected carcinogen often found in shampoos, nail polish, nail hardeners, and hair growth products. Look for wording like hydantoins and surfactants (such as sodium lauryl sulfate), which may contain formaldehyde even when it's not listed on the label. Other names: Formalin, MDM.
  • Coal tar colors - listed as FD&C and D&C colors, coal tar is a common ingredient in cosmetics, hair dyes and dandruff shampoos. They have been found to cause cancer as well as other health problems from asthma attacks to headaches.
  • Lead - found in some hair dyes, especially those that work gradually. Lead is a known carcinogen and hormone disruptor that can be readily absorbed through the skin and can accumulate in the bones. A study by Xavier University of Louisiana found a number of brands of hair dyes that contain up to ten times the amount of lead allowed in household paint.
  • DEA, TEA and MEA- diethanolamine and triethanolamine, and monoethanolamine, three chemicals when combined with nitrites produce nitrosamines-highly carcinogenic compounds which are readily absorbed into the skin. They are often found in shampoos, bubble baths, body washes and soaps.

The laundry list of toxins commonly found in cosmetics goes on and on. According to the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health, of all the chemicals used in cosmetics, nearly nine hundred are toxic. A person could really use some wrinkle cream from worrying about how to look good and stay safe at the same time. But it is possible to put a pretty face on beauty products. Choose among the many great over-the-counter products that contain truly natural ingredients you know and can pronounce, or consider making your own shampoos, lotions, etc. A good guide to toxins to avoid, shopping for healthy over-the-counter products, and do-it-yourself recipes is Drop Dead Gorgeous, Protecting Yourself from the Hidden Dangers of Cosmetics by Kim Erickson. Two other good recipe books are Earthly Bodies and Heavenly Hair by Dina Falconi, and Natural Beauty by Janice Cox.