All you wanted to know about composting...and more!

Compost happens naturally, no matter what, but by following these directions you help to accelerate the natural decomposition process to produce healthy soil.

Step 1: Obtain a bin or an area in your yard that is approximately one cubic yard (3'x3'x3'). Size is important for the proper temperature. Piles that are too small cannot hold enough heat for effective microbial activity, and piles too large (more than 5 feet cubed) do not allow for enough air to reach microbes in the center of the pile.

Step 2: Mix two parts brown (dry leaves, small twigs, straw, etc.) with one part green (grass clippings, kitchen scraps, etc.). This 2:1 ratio provides the best mix of carbon (brown materials) to nitrogen (greens).

Step 3: Chop or break up any twigs and large pieces of fruit and vegetable waste. Materials will break down more quickly with increased surface area.

Step 4: Keep it moist. Water your compost to keep it moist like a wrung-out sponge.

Step 5: Keep it turning. Compost needs air. Turning the compost will help it break down and will prevent it from smelling unpleasant.

Step 6: When it is ready your compost should look and smell like richsoil. Use finished compost to feed your garden, flowers, potted plants and lawn.

Flowers and vegetables: Work in half an inch of mature compost into the top six inches of the soil with a garden fork or rototiller. Be sure that soil isn't sodden with water as this can result in an "adobe effect" when it dries which adversely affects the plants.

Perennials: Use compost as mulch to gradually improve the soil. Apply it an inch or so deep, between the plants.

Seedlings or potted flowers: Use 20% mature compost in the soil mix (if the mix you purchased doesn't already contain compost or worm castings).

Lawn: Sprinkle 1/8 to 1/4 inch of fine compost evenly across the grass to improve the lawn's ability to use fertilizers more efficiently so that less is needed. If you do fertilize your lawn, consider using one of the natural products based on recycled dried poultry wastes (often listed as DPW on the ingredient list) rather than synthetic chemicals.

Trees and shrubs: Uncomposted wood chips, grass clippings, and leaves can be spread around plantings. Be sure that woody wastes are shredded or chipped up.

Indoor plants: Add small handfuls to the surface of the soil inside the pots. It will break down over time and provide nutrients as it decomposes.

Compost Tea: Ailing plants can get a boost from "tea" made from a shovelful of finished compost soaked in a 5-gallon bucket of water for a week. Drain off the liquid and dilute one part tea with two parts water, and water indoor or outdoor plants.

Bones, meat, eggs (egg shells are okay), cheese, and other dairy products or oils should be thrown in the garbage. Excrement from dogs and cats should also be kept out.

No. Compost should not create an odor if you take care of it properly and don't overload the system. Always bury the food waste by pulling aside some of the bedding, dumping the waste, and then cover it up with the bedding again. Bury successive loads in different locations in the bin.

Healthy compost smells like soil. If your compost is smelly, that's a sign that it needs more air. Aerate your compost by regularly turning your pile. Worms in a 16"x19"x12" bin can process 2-3 pounds of garbage a week. Capacity of a 20" x 24" x 12" bin is up to 5 pounds of garbage a week.

The secret to compost does not lie in a commercial bin. Many composters simply wire off a 3'x3'x3' area, while others use pallets for bin walls. However, if you do want to use a commercial bin, please note that stores stock the widest availability of bins in the spring. Prices range from $30 to $200.

As of April 2007, the following local stores stocked compost bins and/or supplies (information courtesy of Boulder County):

Odor
The most common problem is unpleasant, strong odors which are caused by lack of oxygen in the compost due to overloading with food waste so that the food sits around too long, and the bin contents become too wet. The solution is to stop adding food waste until the worms and micro-organisms have broken down what food is in there, and to gently stir up the entire contents to allow more air in. Check the drainage holes to make sure they are not blocked. Drill more holes if necessary. Worms will drown if their surroundings become too wet.

Worms crawling out of the bin
Worms have been known to crawl out of the bedding and onto the sides and lid if conditions are wrong for them. If the moisture level seems alright, the bedding may be too acidic. This can happen if you add a lot of citrus peels and other acidic foods. Adjust by adding a little garden lime and cutting down on acidic wastes.

Fruit flies
Fruit flies can be an occasional nuisance. Discourage them by always burying the food waste and not overloading. Keep a plastic sheet or piece of old carpet or sacking on the surface of the compost in the bin. If materials are held in a container too long, fruit flies may lay their eggs in them. To control fruit flies:

• Add food scraps when they're fresh.
• Bury food scraps under bedding.
• Keep a lid on your bin (but be sure there are air holes for the worms)
• Sprinkle calcium carbonate (lime from stone, not "quick lime") in the bin.
• Place a petri dish filled with vinegar in the bin or place the bin outside in subfreezing temperatures for a few hours (but don't let the worms freeze).

If flies are still persistent, move the bin to a location where flies will not be bothersome. A few friendly spiders nearby will help control fly problems!

Become a Master Composter by taking one of the extremely informative and thorough trainings provided by Boulder County Resource Conservation Division. Learn more from the county's website or by calling 720-564-2220.

Check out the following links for more information on composting at home or jumpstarting composting in your community:

Backyard composting

• Earth 911
• The Compost Guide
• EPA: Composting facts and resources for where you live
• HowToCompost.org
• Master Composter
• California Integrated Waste Management Board: Compost and Mulch

Worm composting (vermicomposting)

• WormWoman.com
• Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof
• Worm Kits
  

Municipal Composting

Several cities across the country operate curbside organics collection programs, and one of the best programs is in San Francisco.

• US Composting Council
• Association of Compost Producers
• California Integrated Waste Management Board: Compost and Mulch
• California Integrated Waste Management Board: Food Scrap Management
• California Organic Recycling Council

The process begins with red worms digesting organic waste and producing castings. These nutrient-rich populations of microbes are then steeped within our new compost tea brewer. The result is a highly beneficial compost tea that will jump-start your plants and turn your soil into living, healthy soil. Learn more about how the tea is brewed and how it can help your plants and yard.